2018 Summer Schedule

This summer we have included a number of measured benchmarks for athletes to measure progress by. Given that climbing progress can feel somewhat subjective we hope that this summer we can provide a touch of objectivity to the kids training. View the benchmarks below.


Points

Climbers will have 45 minutes to collect as many points as possible. V1s = 1 pt, V2s = 2 pts, V3s = 3 pts, etc. This exercise challenges an athlete to choose their problems wisely finding a balance between difficulty and quantity. Additionally, the endurance of an athlete is greatly challenged especially toward the end of the exercise. Athletes will be provided a worksheet to track their climbs and progression throughout the summer.
 

Timed Workout

For these exercises, a break in form counts as a no rep. If an athlete continues to break form their exercise ends at that point. 30 second rests in between each exercise. Fill out worksheet and start at the same station every time. This exercise is run in this order every time. 

  • Push ups: max in 30 seconds
  • Pull ups: max in one minute, rests allowed.
  • Pistol Squats: max in one minute
  • Burpees: max in 30 seconds
  • 5 min plank target: until failure, mark time at failure
  • Wall climbs: max in one minute, with push up at bottom.
  • Jug hang: for time, with 90 degree elbow
  • Toes to bar: max in one minute, rests allowed.
  • Jug lockoff: for time, with 30 degree elbow
  • Pinch walk: for distance, continued walking with 10 lb plate in each hand.
     

Digits/Projecting

Athletes will have one hour to project as partners on either ropes or bouldering. They are encouraged to do a bit of both. Throughout the projecting time partners will be pulled out by a coach to complete a round of digits each. One attempt will be given to each athlete to touch in order numbers on the wall 1 through 10.

Onsighting

Athletes will work toward finding and/or confirming their onsight level. Each athlete will begin by climbing what they believe to be their onsight level then proceed to go one grade above and one grade below reflecting on whether or not they are able to climb grades above or below what they believe is their onsight grade. This exercise is designed to confirm the grade at which an athlete believes they can climb not having any previous beta (i.e. never having watched someone climb the climb, having no information, etc).


Monday, June 4, 2018

Summary: We will work on introducing the strategies of points and how to best save energy throughout in order to not burn out at the end. Using a moving with grace worksheet we will practice both static and dynamic movement focusing on using tension to maintain control on the wall. We will finish up with exercises that target muscles opposite to those we typically use while climbing. 

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up: Traverse the whole gym.  V0’s and V1’s, No unnecessary matching/ninja feet.
6:30 - 7:15 Points  
7:15 - 7:45 Moving with grace worksheet
7:45 - 8:00 Opposition Exercises

 

Tuesday, June 5, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a better climber through (individually and also with a group) practicing a specific skill on many angles and hold types. We will then complete the fitness workout with the goal of attaining personal bests to improve on throughout the summer.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up: Contrast Drill
6:30 - 7:30 Technique - Skill Development: Group learning with proprioceptive clues, ground-work, and demonstration; Individual practice on several different angle and hold types, Add-On with partners.
7:30 - 8:00 Timed work-out


Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Summary: Our goal today is to get used to all things onsighting. We will develop a feeling for what our limits are and what exactly is holding us back. We will start with a warm up drill related to onsighting then move toward onsighting boulder problems and establishing our boulder onsight grade.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up: Add on and traversing the gym
6:30 - 7:00 Onsight sequence warm up drill
7:00 - 8:00 Bouldering Onsights


Thursday, June 7, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a more versatile, technical, and competent climber. This will be practiced through perfect repeaters with a focus on the past-present-future drill and creativity with breath, beta, and playfulness. Then climbers will draw upon these skills through projecting and digits.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up with smearing drill
6:30 - 6:40 Logistics
6:40 - 7:10 Perfect Repeaters: Repeating problems with better and better technique
7:10 - 8:00 Projecting and Digits

Monday, June 11, 2018

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the whole gym, V0’s V1’s slow-mo
6:30 - 7:00 Perfect form worksheet: The perfect form worksheet Involves practicing better workout form.  Climbers are handed a set of workouts that they must practice in order to move onto the timed workout. For example, a pushup. The worksheet lays out  proper body positioning so you execute a push up correctly. This is a partner activity so both climbers learn what bad and good form looks like.
7:00 - 7:40 Timed workout
7:40 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional workouts

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Summary: Assessment week. Today’s goal is to become a more versatile, technical, and competent climber. This will be practiced through perfect repeaters (on ropes) with a focus on the past-present-future drill and creativity with breath, beta, and playfulness. Climbers will then have an on-sight challenge (on ropes).

6:00-6:30 Warm-up with an endurance component
6:30-6:40 Logistics
6:40-7:10 Perfect Repeaters
7:10-8:00 Onsight challenge (Assessment worksheet)

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Summary: Today we are perfecting our on and off the wall sequencing skills  Digits help our brains prepare for successful mental game before we climb. Make a plan, understand your body positioning, execute and send.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the gym and Add-on
6:30 - 7:30 Digits/Projecting
7:30 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional workouts

Thursday, June 14, 2018

Summary: Today’s focus is power-endurance. We will (on boulders) determine an initial, numerical points goal that is both reachable and challenging. We will then do a dynamic leg workout.

6:00-6:30 Warm up with smearing and flagging
6:30-6:45 Logistics and philosophy
6:45-7:30 Points Challenge
7:30-7:45 Debrief
7:45-8:00 Dynamic Leg workout

Monday, June 18, 2018

Summary: Today we pick apart what it means to onsight a problem and re-establish what our bouldering onsight level is.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the gym and V0’s V1’s slow mo
6:30 - 7:00 Onsight/sequence drill: This Drill focuses the climber and prepares their mental game for the following On-sight practice.   The drill involves cutting their boulder project in half. Climbers try and onsight the first half, come off the wall, and then attempt the second half.  If they send both pieces they’re allowed to attempt an onsight. If they onsight the problem they move on to another project.
7:00 - 7:45 Bouldering on-sights
7:45 - 8:00 Oppositional Exercises

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a more versatile, technical, and competent climber. This will be practiced through perfect repeaters (on boulders) with a focus on the past-present-future drill and creativity with breath, beta, and playfulness. A worksheet will be involved, and tied in with climber’s individualized philosophy of progress. Climbers will then be asked to practice their mindset and strategies during projecting and digits.

6:00-6:30 Warm-up with a new partner
6:30-6:45 Logistics and Philosophy
6:45-7:15 Perfect Repeater Worksheet
7:15-8:00 Projecting

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Summary: Points on ropes allows us to increase our endurance while earning points in a healthy competitive environment.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: V0’s V1’s slow-mo and Add-on
6:30 - 7:30 Points on ropes
7:30 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional Exercises

Thursday, June 21, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a better climber through (individually and also with a group) practicing a specific skill on many angles and hold types. We will then complete the fitness workout. Climbers, make sure you bring in your previous benchmarks, as tonight the goal is to push past past boundaries and set new benchmarks, marking improvement!

6:00-6:30 Warm up with contrast drill
6:30-7:30 Technique - Skill Development: Group learning with proprioceptive clues, ground-work, and demonstration; Individual practice on several different angle and hold types, Add-On with partners.
7:30-8:00 Timed workout

Monday, June 25, 2018

Summary:  Today we are perfecting our on and off the wall sequencing skills  Digits help our brains prepare for successful mental game before we climb.  Make a plan, understand your body positioning, execute and send.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the gym.  All the V0’s and V1’s no matching and ninja feet.
6:30 - 7:30 Digits/Projecting
7:30 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional Exercises

Tuesday, June 26, 2018

Summary: Today’s focus is power-endurance. We will (on boulders) remember our previous points benchmark (obtained on 6/14), and determine a game-plan for the 45-minute challenge. A worksheet will guide climbers through this during logistics. The emphasis will be on mindset. We will then do a dynamic leg workout.

6:00-6:30 Warm up with a new partner
6:30-6:45 Logistics
6:45-7:30 Points Challenge
7:30-7:45 Debrief
7:45-8:00 Dynamic Leg workout

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Summary: Dynamic movement is a fun and effective skill when executed properly. Climbers will be subtracting moves from problems two grades below their onsight. Attempting to climb with the least amount of moves necessary.  Then they will be creating their own dynos for others to try.

6:00 - 6:30 Traverse the gym.  All the V0’s and V1’s no matching and ninja feet.
6:30 - 7:15 Bouldering subtraction and Dyno Practice
7:15 - 8:00 Timed workouts

Thursday, June 28, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a better climber through (individually and also with a group) practicing a specific skill on many angles and hold types. Climbers will then have an on-sight challenge (on ropes), facilitated with a worksheet.

6:00-6:30 Warm up with technical focus
6:30-7:00 Technique - Skill Development: Group learning with proprioceptive clues, ground-work, and demonstration; Individual practice on several different angle and hold types, Add-On with partners.
7:00-7:10 Logistics and worksheet
7:10-8:00 Onsight challenge (on ropes)