2018 Summer Schedule

This summer we have included a number of measured benchmarks for athletes to measure progress by. Given that climbing progress can feel somewhat subjective we hope that this summer we can provide a touch of objectivity to the kids training. View the benchmarks below.

Points

Climbers will have 45 minutes to collect as many points as possible. V1s = 1 pt, V2s = 2 pts, V3s = 3 pts, etc. This exercise challenges an athlete to choose their problems wisely finding a balance between difficulty and quantity. Additionally, the endurance of an athlete is greatly challenged especially toward the end of the exercise. Athletes will be provided a worksheet to track their climbs and progression throughout the summer.

Timed Workout

For these exercises, a break in form counts as a no rep. If an athlete continues to break form their exercise ends at that point. 1 minute rests in between each exercise. Fill out worksheet and start at the same station every time. This exercise is run in this order every time.

Push ups: max in one minute
Pull ups: max in one minute, rests allowed.
Pistol Squats: max in one minute
Burpees: max in one minute
5 min plank target: until failure, mark time at failure
Wall climbs: max in one minute, with push up at bottom.
Jug hang: for time, with 90 degree elbow
Toes to bar: max in one minute, rests allowed.
Jug lockoff: for time, with 30 degree elbow
Pinch walk: for time, continued walking with 10 lb plate in each hand.

Digits/Projecting

Athletes will have one hour to project as partners on either ropes or bouldering. They are encouraged to do a bit of both. Throughout the projecting time partners will be pulled out by a coach to complete a round of digits each. One attempt will be given to each athlete to touch in order numbers on the wall 1 through 10.

Onsighting

Athletes will work toward finding and/or confirming their onsight level. Each athlete will begin by climbing what they believe to be their onsight level then proceed to go one grade above and one grade below reflecting on whether or not they are able to climb grades above or below what they believe is their onsight grade. This exercise is designed to confirm the grade at which an athlete believes they can climb not having any previous beta (i.e. never having watched someone climb the climb, having no information, etc).

June 2018

Monday, June 4, 2018

Summary: We will work on introducing the strategies of points and how to best save energy throughout in order to not burn out at the end. Using a moving with grace worksheet we will practice both static and dynamic movement focusing on using tension to maintain control on the wall. We will finish up with exercises that target muscles opposite to those we typically use while climbing.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up: Traverse the whole gym. V0’s and V1’s, No unnecessary matching/ninja feet.
6:30 - 7:15 Points
7:15 - 7:45 Moving with grace worksheet
7:45 - 8:00 Opposition Exercises

Tuesday, June 5, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a better climber through (individually and also with a group) practicing a specific skill on many angles and hold types. We will then complete the fitness workout with the goal of attaining personal bests to improve on throughout the summer.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up: Contrast Drill
6:30 - 7:30 Technique - Skill Development: Group learning with proprioceptive clues, ground-work, and demonstration; Individual practice on several different angle and hold types, Add-On with partners.
7:30 - 8:00 Timed work-out

Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Summary: Our goal today is to get used to all things onsighting. We will develop a feeling for what our limits are and what exactly is holding us back. We will start with a warm up drill related to onsighting then move toward onsighting boulder problems and establishing our boulder onsight grade.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up: Add on and traversing the gym
6:30 - 7:00 Onsight sequence warm up drill
7:00 - 8:00 Bouldering Onsights

Thursday, June 7, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a more versatile, technical, and competent climber. This will be practiced through perfect repeaters with a focus on the past-present-future drill and creativity with breath, beta, and playfulness. Then climbers will draw upon these skills through projecting and digits.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm Up with smearing drill
6:30 - 6:40 Logistics
6:40 - 7:10 Perfect Repeaters: Repeating problems with better and better technique
7:10 - 8:00 Projecting and Digits

Monday, June 11, 2018

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the whole gym, V0’s V1’s slow-mo
6:30 - 7:00 Perfect form worksheet: The perfect form worksheet Involves practicing better workout form. Climbers are handed a set of workouts that they must practice in order to move onto the timed workout. For example, a pushup. The worksheet lays out proper body positioning so you execute a push up correctly. This is a partner activity so both climbers learn what bad and good form looks like.
7:00 - 7:40 Timed workout
7:40 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional workouts

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Summary: Assessment week. Today’s goal is to become a more versatile, technical, and competent climber. This will be practiced through perfect repeaters (on ropes) with a focus on the past-present-future drill and creativity with breath, beta, and playfulness. Climbers will then have an on-sight challenge (on ropes).

6:00-6:30 Warm-up with an endurance component
6:30-6:40 Logistics
6:40-7:10 Perfect Repeaters
7:10-8:00 Onsight challenge (Assessment worksheet)

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Summary: Today we are perfecting our on and off the wall sequencing skills Digits help our brains prepare for successful mental game before we climb. Make a plan, understand your body positioning, execute and send.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the gym and Add-on
6:30 - 7:30 Digits/Projecting
7:30 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional workouts

Thursday, June 14, 2018

Summary: Today’s focus is power-endurance. We will (on boulders) determine an initial, numerical points goal that is both reachable and challenging. We will then do a dynamic leg workout.

6:00-6:30 Warm up with smearing and flagging
6:30-6:45 Logistics and philosophy
6:45-7:30 Points Challenge
7:30-7:45 Debrief
7:45-8:00 Dynamic Leg workout

Monday, June 18, 2018

Summary: Today we pick apart what it means to onsight a problem and re-establish what our bouldering onsight level is.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the gym and V0’s V1’s slow mo
6:30 - 7:00 Onsight/sequence drill: This Drill focuses the climber and prepares their mental game for the following On-sight practice. The drill involves cutting their boulder project in half. Climbers try and onsight the first half, come off the wall, and then attempt the second half. If they send both pieces they’re allowed to attempt an onsight. If they onsight the problem they move on to another project.
7:00 - 7:45 Bouldering on-sights
7:45 - 8:00 Oppositional Exercises

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a more versatile, technical, and competent climber. This will be practiced through perfect repeaters (on boulders) with a focus on the past-present-future drill and creativity with breath, beta, and playfulness. A worksheet will be involved, and tied in with climber’s individualized philosophy of progress. Climbers will then be asked to practice their mindset and strategies during projecting and digits.

6:00-6:30 Warm-up with a new partner
6:30-6:45 Logistics and Philosophy
6:45-7:15 Perfect Repeater Worksheet
7:15-8:00 Projecting

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Summary: Points on ropes allows us to increase our endurance while earning points in a healthy competitive environment.

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: V0’s V1’s slow-mo and Add-on
6:30 - 7:30 Points on ropes
7:30 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional Exercises

Thursday, June 21, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a better climber through (individually and also with a group) practicing a specific skill on many angles and hold types. We will then complete the fitness workout. Climbers, make sure you bring in your previous benchmarks, as tonight the goal is to push past past boundaries and set new benchmarks, marking improvement!

6:00-6:30 Warm up with contrast drill
6:30-7:30 Technique - Skill Development: Group learning with proprioceptive clues, ground-work, and demonstration; Individual practice on several different angle and hold types, Add-On with partners.
7:30-8:00 Timed workout

Monday, June 25, 2018

6:00 - 6:30 Warm up: Traverse the gym. All the V0’s and V1’s no matching and ninja feet.
6:30 - 7:30 Digits/Projecting
7:30 - 8:00 Yoga and Oppositional Exercises

Tuesday, June 26, 2018

Summary: Today’s focus is power-endurance. We will (on boulders) remember our previous points benchmark (obtained on 6/14), and determine a game-plan for the 45-minute challenge. A worksheet will guide climbers through this during logistics. The emphasis will be on mindset. We will then do a dynamic leg workout.

6:00-6:30 Warm up with a new partner
6:30-6:45 Logistics
6:45-7:30 Points Challenge
7:30-7:45 Debrief
7:45-8:00 Dynamic Leg workout

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Summary: Dynamic movement is a fun and effective skill when executed properly. Climbers will be subtracting moves from problems two grades below their onsight. Attempting to climb with the least amount of moves necessary. Then they will be creating their own dynos for others to try.

6:00 - 6:30 Traverse the gym. All the V0’s and V1’s no matching and ninja feet.
6:30 - 7:15 Bouldering subtraction and Dyno Practice
7:15 - 8:00 Timed workouts

Thursday, June 28, 2018

Summary: Today’s goal is to become a better climber through (individually and also with a group) practicing a specific skill on many angles and hold types. Climbers will then have an on-sight challenge (on ropes), facilitated with a worksheet.

6:00-6:30 Warm up with technical focus
6:30-7:00 Technique - Skill Development: Group learning with proprioceptive clues, ground-work, and demonstration; Individual practice on several different angle and hold types, Add-On with partners.
7:00-7:10 Logistics and worksheet
7:10-8:00 Onsight challenge (on ropes)

July 2018

Monday, July 2, 2018

6:00-6:30 Warm up: all of the V0’s, V1’s with no matching and frozen feet.
6:30-7:30 Bouldering Points Drill
7:30-8:00 Antagonist workout (plank army crawl with plank freeze tag)

Tuesday, July 3, 2018

No practice, Happy 4th of July!

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

No practice, Happy 4th of July!

Thursday, July 5, 2018

6:00-6:30 Onsight ladder. Start at 2 below onsight. Climb up to onsight and back down to 2 below. When finished find 2 to 3 projects for projecting.
6:30-7:15 Projecting. Max 3 problems. Coach must approve switching between projects.
7:15-7:45 Hard Easy Hard. One problem at onsight and another at 1 below onsight.
7:45-8:00 Cool down stretch

Monday, July 9, 2018

6:00-6:30 Traverse the entire gym and Add on
6:30-7:30 Moving with endurance worksheet. Climbers will execute several different endurance challenges.
7:30-8:00 Timed benchmark Workout

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

6:00-6:30 Tension game starting at 2 below onsight. Partners of 2-3
6:30-7:15 Elimination on ropes. 1 below onsight. Each hold eliminated is a 10 second plank for your partner, if the route is sent.
7:15-8:00 Laps. Work on endurance, technique, and tension.

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

6:00-6:30 Traverse the entire gym
6:30-7:30 Digits and projecting
7:30-8:00 Bouldering with one foot only smearing and flagging. Climb each problem twice. Start at two below onsight and work your way to onsight. Focus on body positioning.

Thursday, July 12, 2018

6:00-6:30 Warm up to onsight level. Begin to push yourself on stuff harder than onsight.
6:30-7:45 Up-Down-Up Competition
7:45-8 Announce winner. Game (Teams choice)

Monday, July 16, 2018

6:00-6:30 V0’s and V1’s Focusing on foot pivoting. Remember Hip in and square hips and when to use them.
6:30-7:30 Re-establish bouldering onsight and then project.
7:30-8:00 Push workout (plank, plank with reach, wall climbs, etc…)

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

6:00-6:30 On ropes with a partner. Each person climbs 5 minutes on. Start with a route 2 below onsight. Climbing route up, and rainbowing down, no stopping till 5 minutes is up. Repeat.
6:30-7:45 Project 2 problems that are opposite of what you’re good at. Pick an area of the gym you are weakest at.
7:45-8:00 Stretching core combo

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

6:00-6:30 V0’s and V1’s with Bells! (Share) or climb with a partner silently. Every noise is a burpee.
6:30-7:30 Bouldering points drill
7:30-8:00 Plank army crawl and cool down yoga

Thursday, July 19, 2018

6:00-6:30 Starting at 2 below onsight, climb each problem twice. Once with only using left foot, then again with only your right. This will help grow body tension and trunk strength.
6:30-7:00 Hard-easy-hard. One problem at onsight and another at 1 below onsight.
7:00-7:45 Grab box. With a partner. Most points wins!
7:45-8:00 Game (Teams choice)

Monday, July 23, 2018

6:00-6:30 V0’s slow mo. V1’s no matching and sticky feet.
6:30-7:30 Digits and Projecting
7:30-8:00 Antagonist workout (plank, plank with reach, wall climbs, etc…)

Tuesday, July 24, 2018

6:00-6:30 Onsight ladder. Start 2 below onsight, up to onsight, then back down. Once finish, find 2 projects to work on.
6:30-7:15 Work on projects. Cannot move on until project sent, or coach approves.
7:15-7:45 Add-on with added element of keeping constant body tension. If tension lost, climber comes down and does 30 second plank, and loses turn.
7:45-8:00 Workout

Wednesday, July 25, 2018

6:00-6:30 Traverse the Gym
6:30-7:30 Bouldering elimination (30 minutes)
Add on (30 minutes)
7:30-8:00Timed workout

Thursday, July 26, 2018

6:00-6:30 Quiet feet while keeping tension. With a partner.
6:30-7:00 4X4’s
7:00-7:45 Endurance game on ropes. Eric’s ball game
7:45-8:00 Core/stretch in back

Monday, July 30, 2018

6:00-6:30 Add on and slow mo climbs
6:30-7:30 Bouldering Points and projecting
7:30-8:00 Blocks game(teamwork game) with burpees

Tuesday, July 31, 2018

6:00-6:30 Onsight ladder perfect repeaters. Starting 2 below onsight
6:30-7:15 Projecting. One problem has to be in an area where you’re weakest. Coach must approve this project.
7:15-8:00 Hard-Easy’s on ropes. Climber’s choice if either top rope or sport.